

Brown Gravy

Green Seasoning
Coconut Peas and Rice

Fried fish with green seasoning

Fried Plantains
Recipes follow story
One of my biggest crushes in this life, bigger than my crush on Kate Winslet, Hugh Jackman and apple crumb pie a la mode …
Aubrey Leander DeSilva.
Who is Aubrey Leander DeSilva?
My first crush. Aubrey lived across the street from me and his house directly faced my back yard. From his garage, and from my grandpas garden, we would talk on the phone, every day, after school. He was 14 and I was 12. He was Guyanese, he dj’d, he could dance - and I was chubby and self-conscious. He would tell me I had beautiful hair, he would always ask me what I was reading whenever he saw me shuffling around with a book. He was a dream.
When I stepped off of the L train and set foot on Rockaway Parkway 2 weekends ago, I wondered where Aubrey was. I wished he would be waiting in front of the library for me, where he used to pick me up after school, but no such luck.
I walked past the library, past Canarsie High School, past bodegas where I would buy cigarettes for 10 cents a piece.
I arrived at Avenue L, where I would go to the movies, eat a slice, then eat an icey, then gobble down a pastry.
This time around I didn’t have a slice, icey or pastry, my friend and I closed in a little West Indian market between 94th and 95th Street - that is after we stuffed ourselves on Jamaican food for lunch.
Orin Small is originally from Guyana and has lived in Canarsie for the past 16 years and he opened his specialty West Indian Food Market 12 years ago. His motivation; one day his wife sent him out to purchase mixed essence, and there was none to be found in the neighborhood. Mixed essence contains vanilla, pear oil, almond oil, pineapple and caramel - among some other flavors - and from what I learned, it’s a key ingredient in black cake or rum cake a traditional holiday treat enjoyed in Guyana and throughout the Caribbean. Orin Small saw this as an opportunity to build a go to market in Canarsie, where residents could seek out ingredients to make meals they would always enjoy at home.
Standing close by Orin was his son, Roland. Roland Small may only be 15 years old, but he knows a thing or two about making a sale and giving cooking tutorials.
For the child who is raised among family meals and a culture rooted in the tradition of cooking, sharing memories of food will always be the first thing on their mind. Well, at least that’s the case for me and Roland.
I walked out of the store on Saturday night, learning how to make the Small’s version of Guyanese green seasoning, as they prepare it in their own home.
It was recommended that I use this green seasoning on any kind of white fish and then fry it up, until the rub gets crispy. The Small’s enjoy their fried fish with coconut peas and rice or plantains, and they also shared their recipe for brown gravy.
Going back to Canarsie didn’t land me in the arms of my childhood crush, it brought me back to my only love - my kitchen.
Brown Gravy
*makes 2 cups
1 T. oil
1 medium onion (diced)
1 bunch scallions (diced)
1/2 pint grape tomatoes (halved)
3 cloves of garlic (minced)
3 wiri wiri peppers (minced)
3/4 c. water
1 c. Miracle Seasoning
-In a medium saucepan, heat oil over medium flame
-Add onions and scallions, sauteing until fragrant about 5-7 minutes
-Add garlic, tomatoes and wiri wiri pepper - and cook for an additional 10-12 minutes, stirring frequently
-Add water
-Add Miracle Seasoning and bring to a boil
-Put aside until fish is fried and ready to serve
Green Seasoning
*rub for 8 filets
1/3 c. dried broad leaf thyme
1/3 c. dried fine leaf thyme
1/2 c. fresh basil
4 scallions
2 cloves garlic
3 wiri wiri pepper
1/2 tsp. salt
8 pieces of butter fish (or any white fleshed fish filet)
3 T. vegetable oil
-In a food processor, fit with a steel blade, add first 7 ingredients and pulse until blended
-Rub green seasoning on fish and put aside
-Add oil to a large skillet, and place over medium flame, frying rubbed fish - in batches - cooking for approximately 3 minutes on each side (depending on thickness/size of filet)
-Top with brown gravy or serve on the side
Plantain Chips
5 green plantains
Vegetable oil for frying
Kosher salt
-Soak plantains in scalding hot water for 7-10 minutes, for ease of peeling
-Fill a medium sauce pan, halfway, with oil and place over medium flame - allowing to reach 375 degrees
-If you do not have a thermometer or a deep fryer, test the oil by tossing in a piece of plantain, and if it floats to the top within moments - you’re good to start frying
-Trim top of plantain, make a slice through the skin of the plantain - lengthwise - and remove skin
-Cut plantains in half
-Using a mandolin, if you have one, slice lengthwise into long strips
-If you do not own a mandolin, make lengthwise slices or slice plantain into thin rounds
-Add plantains to the hot oil, frying in batches, until deep golden brown
Coconut Peas and Rice
2 c. parboiled rice
1 c. yellow split peas
1 14 oz can coconut milk
1 1/4 c. water
1 small onion (diced)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
-To a large stock pot, add peas, rice, diced onion, coconut milk, salt and pepper
-Place pot over a low flame and cover
-Cook until all liquid is completely absorbed
-Serve with fried, herb rubbed, white fish